madock în moldova: July 2009

Politically, gastronomically, and personally July has proved to be very eventful month. The cherries have left, and succulent peaches are peddled through the markets. Pears are just beginning to ripen. Pictured at left are some kebabs with authentic Turkish seasonings from my trip in March. A Chişinău blonde beer sits just behind the plates. The couscous was donated to me from a volunteer leaving early. A welcomed gift. Just below are some homemade gnocchi with mushroom, blue cheese, and Crème fraîche. I normally finish with cognac, but because I'm essentially in the USSR I substituted some vodka.

Politically the democratic opposition has finally overcome the incumbent Communist party. Per the constitution the parliment has been dissolved since the original election which failed to form a coalition and elect a president. Here is a link to a great New York Times article. http://www.nytimes.com/2009/07/31/world/europe/31moldova.html?hp

Pictured here is a small picnic at sunset near what my village calls the 'pool.' In reality it is a agricultural holding pond that was held over from the Soviet Union. Next to me is Igor my host father's tractor driver, and further left is Artor my host sister's fiance. My addition was tomato basil penne. Their addition was bread with a scary pate topped with a sardine and cucumber. Tasty. Of course we are holding a beer in hand!

Odessa, Ukraine is one of my favorite cities. It is broken and polished at the same time. 100 thousand euro cars wizz by next to 1980's soviet era Ladas. One can eat high end sushi on one street, and find a dollar beer sold on the beach just 1oo meters away. Pictured at the left is one of my favorite vistas from the centre. This is one of the busiest ports in east Europe, and it is mesmerizing to watch with a beer in hand.

Here is Will and his wife Harmony and I standing before the Potempkin Stairs that extend from the opera to the port. They are an archectual marvel. From the bottom you can only see the stairs, and from the top down you can only see the landings.

Captain Morgan's Bar! One of the best mojito's I have ever had! European style with mulled ice and plenty of rough sugar cane at the bottom of the highball glass.

The crowded Odessa Beaches. You can have a 40 minute massage for just over 6 dollars at your beach chair. A beer is just over a dollar; chips are the same price. Fruit, pastries, and dried fish are peddled here as well.

I thought I should show you all that it is possible to find Indian food! The whole group of us in Odessa were on a mission to find this meal. We actually arrived at the swank hotel Londonskaya per a reccomendation and were given menus. The menues looked like mediocre 'contemporary european' cuisine, but we knew we were in the right place given everyone working in the hotel, and the only other filled table, were Indians. We politly asked for the 'special' menu, and it was explained to us the special menu was only in Russian. We then proceeded to just basically list of things we normally order and were even surprized with some samosas to start!

This was the second summer I volunteered for Winrock International's Summer School of Leadership. Fifty five young women from vocational schools throughout Moldova arrived for a diverse curriculum of lessons over 8 days. The program was focused on a business training where groups of three to five young women worked to creat a viable business plan. Gender equality, family planning, and self esteem were talked as well. In the girls' free time we had a bonfire, badminton, beach volleyball, friendship bracelets, and made pinatas. Four male counsellors, and eight female counsellors prepared presentations from eight am until 10 pm. I was the only american present. Pictured here is my (the male) counsellors' cabin.